What is allergenic in cosmetics? Allergy vs make-up

It has been repeatedly highlighted in studies conducted around the world that make-up influences mood, self-esteem in women and their social interactions [1,2,3]. Moreover, it makes women perceived by others as: more attractive, dominant, competent and influential, and even healthier [1,2].

Surveys of American women found that 78% spend one hour a day on their appearance (e.g. hair treatments, dressing and make-up) [1]. Women in the US spend an average of 10 minutes on make-up in the morning, and 85% tend to apply at least 16 products to their face before leaving the house [1]. In contrast, the average Japanese woman (living in the suburbs of Tokyo) applies 128 mg of foundation, 12 mg of mascara, 22 mg of lip gloss, and removes her make-up with 1.73 g of make-up remover every day [4,5].

The majority of Polish women (66%) – according to Biostat [6] – apply make-up every day, and start their beauty adventure as early as the age of 14-18. 83.4% of them consider mascara to be the most important cosmetic item in their daily routine.

The cosmetics that women use on a daily basis contain an average of 168 different ingredients [7,8]. Some of these ingredients may prove to be highly allergenic or capable of causing photosensitising reactions. Contact dermatitis is most often caused by allergens found in skin care (moisturising) cosmetics. Make-up products rank just behind them [13].

In foundations, powders, shadows, blushes and lipsticks we can find, among other things:

• fragrances,
• preservatives
• antioxidants,
• carriers of active substances,
• ultraviolet absorbers,
• humectants,
• emollients,
• emulsifiers,
• acrylates [8].

The main allergens are fragrances (of which more than 3,000 have been identified so far) and preservatives (e.g. parabens, formaldehyde). The top allergens linked to the occurrence of allergy symptoms after the use of cosmetics are:

• quaternium-15 2% (methenamine 3-chloroalloylchloride),
• balsam of Peru 25% (Myroxylon pereirae),
• FM I 8% (fragrance mix),
• p-Phenylenediamine 1% (p-Phenylenediamine),
• methyldibromo glutaronitrile/phenoxyethanol (MDGN/PE),
• formaldehyde 1%.

Formaldehyde in sensitised individuals can cause an exacerbated form of contact eczema with the simultaneous consumption of certain foods. These include cod, caviar, coffee, maple syrup, shiitake mushrooms and smoked ham [8].

Metals, e.g. nickel and cobalt present in eye shadow, mascara and lipstick, etc., can also cause sensitisation in cosmetics.

Cosmetics of unknown origin are a separate problem. The journal Contact Dermatitis [10] describes a case of a woman who was diagnosed with contact eczema after applying artistic make-up. This occurred at a street festival during the Venice Carnival.

The lesions occurred only in areas where a product with glitter was applied. It was found that methylisothiazolinone (MCI), which – due to its strong sensitising properties – is banned for use in cosmetics, was responsible for the reaction. It turned out that the product used to apply the make-up was not intended for cosmetic use.

Although the prevalence of cosmetic allergies is estimated to be less than 1%, it is difficult to speak of reliable statistics here. Allergic reactions account for 2%-4% of visits to the dermatologist [11]. Certainly, estimates of the prevalence of this problem are underestimated. Most people – especially in the case of mild side effects – do not visit the doctor at all [8].

Surprisingly, it is not at all necessary to use a cosmetic product for an adverse reaction to occur. Allergens from cosmetics can reach the skin surface of an allergic person transferred by other people or even pets [8].

Allergic contact dermatitis takes an acute or chronic form. It may manifest, for example, as itchy papules, oozing blisters on the skin, swelling, tingling and burning [8,14]. The acute form manifests itself approximately 24-48 hours after contact with the allergen. It initially manifests as localised contact urticaria. In some in the second phase of the allergic reaction, local urticaria develops into generalised urticaria combined with angioedema. In the third phase, symptoms may involve systems and organs other than the skin, e.g. the mucous membrane of the nose, conjunctiva or lips. In phase four, even anaphylaxis occurs [14].

After prolonged exposure to the allergen, it is not uncommon for sensitised individuals to develop plaques and other extensive skin lesions [8]. Delayed phototoxic reactions may result in permanent hyperpigmentation [14].

Ważnych informacji na temat czynnika sprawczego dostarcza lokalizacja zmian [8]. Od niej też zależy  nasilenie objawów. Oprócz lokalizacji znaczenie mają m.in. rodzaj zastosowanego produktu, częstotliwości stosowania, czasu trwania kontaktu i indywidualne skłonności alergika [11].

The widespread use of make-up cosmetics makes the face particularly predisposed to skin lesions [11]. Allergic contact dermatitis is considered the main cause of eyelid inflammation (30-77% of cases) [14]. This is because it is the eyelids – covered by exceptionally thin skin – that are most prone to developing contact allergy symptoms [5,11].

Cosmetic ingredients applied in close proximity to the eye migrate into the tear film and eyelid crevice [7]. Such contact can trigger not only an allergic reaction, but also classic irritation.

Aleksandra Lipiec 

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translation: Julia Majsiak